AC Line Restoration

We do provide AC line restoration.  These are finished and ready to return.  For more info contact us!

Fender Tag Interpretation

1962-1968 Option Codes

1962-1968 Fender Date Code Options

Code        Description

001     Mono-Tone Paint
001     3-Speed Manual Column Shift (1967)
002     Two Tone Paint
003     Tires 6.50x13" WSW
003     4-Speed Manual Floor Shift (1967)
004     361-2bbl Engine (1964)
004     Front Sway Bar (1968 Super Stock)
005     383-4bbl Engine (1968)
005     3-Speed Auto (1967)
006     383-8bbl (1967)
007     413-2bbl Engine 300K (1964)
009     426-8bbl Max Wedge Engine
009     Special Order Tires
011     Tires 7.00x13" BSW
011     170-1bbl Engine (1967)
013     Tires 7.00x13" WSW
014     14x5-1/2" Stamped Steel Wheels
014     426 Street Wedge Engine (1963-64)
015     Column Shift with Manual Steering
016     Tires 7.00x13" BSW
017     B-Body Sub Frame Hemi Auto
018     Tires 7.00x13" WSW
019     A-Body Front Disc Brakes
020     170-1bbl Engine
021     225-1bbl Engine
022     Tires 6.95x14" BSW
026     D70x14" BSW
027     Tires D70x14" WSW
028     Tires D70x14" Red Streak
030     Tires 7.35x14" SWS
031     273-2bbl Engine
032     273-4bbl Engine
033     7.35 x 14 WSW Tires
038     E70x14" WSW
039     E70x14" RSW
041     318 2bbl
042     7.75 x 14 BSW Tires
043     7.75 x 14 WSW Tires
044     F70x14" RSW
045     F70-15 Red Streak Tires
046     F70-14 Red Streak Tires
046     F70-14 WSW Tires
048     7.75 x 14 Blue Streak Tires
048     7.75 x 14 Red Streak Tires (1966-67)
050     361-2bbl Engine
051     8.25 x 14 WSW Tires
052     340-4bbl Engine
053     8.25 x 14 WSW Tires
056     8.25 x 14 BSW Tires
059     8.25 x 14 WSW Tires
060     8.55 x 14 BSW Tires
060     383-2bbl Engine (1965)
061     383-2bbl Engine
061     8.55 x 14 WSW Tires
061     383-4bbl Engine (1965)
062     383-4bbl Engine
063     8.55x14 WSW Tires
066     8.55x14 8 pr BSW Tires
068     8.55x14 8 pr WSW Tires
071     413-4bbl 1965
071     8.85x14 BSW Tires
072     8.85x14 WSW Tires
073     426-8bbl Hemi Engine
075     8.45x15 BSW Tires
076     8.45x15 WSW Tires
078     8.45x15 8 pr BSW Tires
079     8.45x15 8 pr WSW Tires
080     426-4 street wedge 65
081     440 High Performance
082     426-2-4bbl HEMI 64-65
082     8.85x15 8 pr BSW Tires
083     440-4bbl hp
084     8.85x15 8 pr WSW Tires
091     8.15x15 BSW Tires
094     8.15x15 WSW Tires
095     8.85x15 BSW Tires
096     G70x15 Red Streak Tires
097     8.85x15 WSW Tires
098     G70x15 White Streak Tires
099     Special order speedometer pin gear
273     Destination charge
285     3.23 open 8.75" axle
291     Solid Paint
292     Two-Tone paint
294     Sport Stripes
294     GTX Racing Stripe 67 Only
300     Green Convertible Top
301     Black Convertible Top
302     White Convertible Top
304     Green vinyl Top
306     Black vinyl Top
307     White vinyl Top
309     Bucket Seats (n/a with RR or Super Bee)
310     Accent Stripe
319     Delete Standard GTS Stripe
321     basic Group
322     safety Group
335     Light Pkg.
342     Torqueflite 1962-63 & 66
343     4-Speed Manual Transmission 1964-65
344     3-Speed Manual Transmission 1964
345     Torqueflite 1964-65
346     3-Speed Manual Transmission 1963
351     Basic Radio Group
351     Basic wheels
352     Power Brakes 62-66
353     Deluxe Dress-up Group
353     Molding Pkg./Sport/Group/Barracuda
354     Charger Radio Group
355     Light Package
358     3.55 HP Axle 383-4bbl Only
358     Sport Decor Barracuda
359     Trailer Package
360     decor group
360     Roadrunner decor group 68
361     radio 1962- 66
361     3-speed manual transmission 1964-65
362     Rallye instrument, cluster
362     3spd HD man trans. 1964-65
363     4spd man trans. 1965
364     200 decor group
365     GTX pkg. 1967 only
365     Torqueflite 65
366     Super/stock HEMI pkg.
367     formula pkg. Barracuda
385     heater 62-65
390     dual snorkel air w/dual exhaust
392     3-speed manual transmission
393     4-Speed Manual Transmission
395     Automatic Transmission
404     3.23:1 Final Gear Ratio
406     Dana 60 with 3.54 gear ratio
408     Sure Grip
411     Air Conditioning
412     dual air conditioner
413     Auto temp single
414     auto temp dual
416     Heater Delete
418     Rear window defroster
419     retractable seat belts 62-66
420     AM 8-Track Radio
421     AM Radio
422     Music Master AM Radio
423     AM/FM Radio
425     golden tone am/fm multiplex
426     Rear seat speaker
427     stereo tape player Imperial
428     AM/fM golden tone multiplex
429     front mount antenna
432     Tinted Windshield
447     426 HEMI w/auto trans. specs
450     manual steering
451     Power Brakes
452     power door locks
453     bench seat 6 way
454     power bucket or split bench left
455     power 6 way seat left & right
456     Power Steering
458     Power Windows (HT and Convertible only)
459     vent windows
460     tailgate wind wiper wash
461     power tailgate window
462     assist handles
463     roof luggage rack
464     luggage compartment lock
465     center front seat/w/arm rest
467     Ornamentation pkg.
470     Air cleaner pkg.
472     auto headlamp dimmer
473     Speed Control
478     11" Heavy Duty Brakes
479     Front Disc Brakes
480     Dual Horns
481     Front Bumper Guards
482     Rear Bumper Guards
483     Front & Rear Bumper Guard Group
484     Clock
485     Center Arm Rest
486     Console (N/A w RR or Super Bee)
492     Maximum Cooling Package
493     Oil Bath Air Cleaner
494     replace Cobb oil filter
496     fast idle control
497     Engine Block Heater
498     seven blade fan
503     carpeting
505     pedal dress up
508     Performance Hood Paint
509     glove box lock
510     corning lights
511     Map Light
513     Reading Lamps
514     Glovebox Lamp
515     Ashtray Lamp
516     Trunk Lamp
517     Hood / Fender Mounted Turn Signal
519     Safe Guard Sentinel Lamp
520     Clear Glass (with AC only)
521     Tinted Glass
522     Tinted Glass (Windshield Only)
523     Clear Windshield (only with AC)
529     Custom Sill Moldings
531     LH Headrest
532     RH Headrest
533     R&L Headrests
534     inside rearview mirror
535     roof drip rail moldings
536     Remote Outside Mirror
537     manual outside/light mirror
538     Locking Gas Cap
539     lower body appliqué
540     Belt Moldings (HardTop only)
547     Pillar Moldings (Coupe only)
548     wheel lip moldings
549     bright moldings
550     Deluxe Seat Belts
551     Deluxe Front Seat Cushion Foam
552     Deluxe Front & Rear  Seat Cushion Foam
553     front bucket & rear seats
556     Front Seat Belts
557     Rear Seat Belts
558     front shoulder belts
559     bright seat side shields
560     Pass. side seat recline
561     HD front seat
562     HD rear seat
563     50/50 front seat
564     bucket seat w/o headrest
565     Rear Armrests (Road Runner Coupe)
567     Rear Shoulder Belts
568     Front Shoulder Belts
570     tilt scope steering wheel
571     Full Horn Ring Steering Wheel
573     Wood Rimmed Steering Wheel
574     Vacuum Gauge
575     Partial Horn/Steering Wheel
577     Tachometer
578     no/undercoat or HD pad
579     Undercoating & Hood Pad
580     Road Wheels (n/a with Hemi)
581     15 inch deluxe wheel cover
582     sport wheel covers
583     bolt/on design wheel cover
584     Deep Dish Wheel Covers (n/a with Hemi)
586     Simulated Mag Wheelcovers (n/a with Hemi)
588     Wheel House Liners
589     3-Speed Wipers
591     46 Amp Alternator
594     60 Amp Alternator
595     65 Amp Alternator
621     70 Amp Battery
622     battery 48 amps
623     HD suspension w/o sway bar
624     Heavy Duty Suspension
625     Heavy-Duty Shocks
626     70 Amp Battery
627     59 Amp Battery
628     fast ratio man steering
637     3.23:1 Sure Grip 8.75x11"
638     Heavy Duty Shocks
642     no spare tire
644     HD suspension w/front sway bar
646     convert backlight
648     Hemi Suspension
659     Delete Mirrors
661     Radio suppresser pkg.
667     RH visor only
670     sales bank order
691     expedite
693     manufacture certified card
708     Special Buffed Paint
733     426Hemi w/4-speed specs
769     383-4bbl auto transmission. specs
794     left HEMI Rear spring 6/leaf
964     Right HEMI rear spring 7/leaf
965     Left HEMI Rear spring assembly
999     Special Order Option
X-9     Track option special order
Y-9     aluminum front end special order

Sweden and the Netherlands!

One motor leaving here today for Sweden...this one when I got it had experienced a carb fire and was not in real good shape, needless to say...it's looking much better now  ;o)

Here's the inside of the housing when I opened it up on arrival....

And this one is headed for the Netherlands today for a 69 Charger that's in need over there

Shipping overseas is NO problem for us, we LOVE sending motors across the world!

The Netherland wiper motor went to  Autoschade Harteveld BV   Check them out if you're in the area

Check out Boog Mopar

Hey everyone.  Check out my European contact for wiper motors and other Mopar restored parts.  Andrea and I have been doing business a couple years now and he's the greatest to talk to on the phone, in person.

Boog Mopar

1970 Chrysler Starter Resto

These are the after photos of the 1970 Chrysler starter resto finished up this morning in the OC shop.  See, it's not just about wiper motors anymore  ;o)

General Industries Wiper Motor Restored

Every now and then we work "deals" with people we've worked with before, and some new, where we trade labor on a motor or two for a certain number of fully usable good condition cores....hey it's a win win situation that way right?

These are photos of Bob's restored variable speed General Industries wiper motor, one of the motors on the deal above described.  This particular motor is going on an early build 68 B Body application, Charger I believe.

 

Wait til you see the AC lines we're currently working on and are almost completed for another Charger...they are sweeeeeeeeeet.  Some new products, and thus my earlier hint of surprises to come!

Hamtrack Website - Bookmark It, There's Invaluable Info Here

This is a GREAT website to bookmark for great information on Mopars....every now and then I run through bookmarks and see where I have one and thought....hey, maybe someone else might need this info....

Hamtrack Historical Info

E Body Linkage Restored

E Body Linkage Restored

Check out the photos of a customer's E body linkage restored

Done, Done, Done

Dropped the plating off yesterday about noon, picked it up less than 24 hours later!!  It's done, done, done and man do I LOVE having a larger selection of date codes again.  

I've worked with reduced inventory since my arrival in FL because of circumstances beyond my control (how do you control someone else's poor behavior?)  and now the shelves are restocked.  Another plating run goes in two weeks, because I'm adding to this inventory!

Added Some Photos to Facebook CHECK IT OUT

Photos I've added to Facebook

Plating is Done and Ready to Drop Off

This BS of having to drive 55 miles each way to work the OC shop is a PITA, (and EXPENSIVE with gas going from 2.89 to 3.49 since I arrived in FL) but hey, work is work and you figure it's the "cost of doing business" with the constraints immediately put on me where the new property and shop are concerned.  

Things take a little longer on the prep end of things but the plating is prepped, cylinders are ground and everything is ready to drop off on Monday, and hopefully pick up on Thursday.  If you have a Special Order motor with me,  yours will be the first to get built and shipped, after that it'll be sort, date code and put on the shelves.

 

Before Prep, core components in the OC blast shop

 Core components moved to the inside of the big shop in OC

 

Cylinders moved to the attic of the OC shop

Since all cores now go to the OC shop, there's no prep even being done from the Orlando shop, thus the delay in prepping plating...but that's the piles we had to work through  LOL  

73 were prepped for plating on this run.  It's quite the process from start to finish, with the grinding that most cores require on the cylinder to remove pits, etc.   There's another blog where I get more indepth on the process if you're looking for the info   ;o)

Installing a sewn type headliner with bows

How to Install a Sewn Type Headliner with Bows

Man Rick has some great tips and tricks.  If you're in need of this info, check his site out and tell him I said Hey!

Passion4Mopars

Assembly Sequence Info from Resto Rick (Rick Kreuziger)

 I am blessed in that I often  find myself meeting some of the best people in the restoration business...people who have great knowledge and love for mopars.  Rick is no exception to the rule...again, thanks to Rick for the information!

ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE:
(some variation with different body types)
(from bare painted body shell)
Spray radiator saddle blackout
Rocker panel pinchweld blackout (if applicable)
Front frame rail side blackout (if applicable)

1. trunk weatherstrip
2. body rubber bumpers
3. trunk latch mechanism
4. hood latches & release mechanisms
5. main body brake & fuel tubing
6. fuel tank & fuel hose connections
7. emissions tubes & hose connections (if applicable)
8. inner cowl insulation pad
9. firewall insulation pad
10. swing pedal(s)
11. brake booster (if applicable)
12. master cylinder
13. defroster duct
14. kick panel insulation pads
15. LH vent box (if applicable)
16. E-brake pedal assembly & front cable
17. wiper mechanism
18. wiper motor
19. heater box assembly
20. cowl vent screens (if applicable)
21. accelerator pedal & cable
22. dash assembly (completely assembled outside
of car including instrument cluster, dash pad, glove
box liner, radio, speaker, wiring, etc.)
23. Vent pull cables, defroster & vent cables
24. proportioning valve & metering block (if applicable)
25. firewall brake tubing
26. starter relay
27. forward lamp harness
28. engine harness
29. starter wiring
30. washer bottle & hoses
31. ballast resistor
32. voltage regulator
33. horn relay (Bbody cars)
34. horns
35. heater hoses
36. headlights
37. fender inner splash shields (front & rear of wheel)
38. rear suspension stop bumpers
39. rear seat belts (some bolt tips get undercoating)
40. rear shocks bolted in at top only & compressed
41. grille & headlight doors
42. front bumper
43. front valance (if applicable) with directionals
44. front & rear side marker lamps
45. rear bumper
46. radio antenna
47. fender emblems (if applicable)
48. rear of fender splash shields
49. undercoat wheelwells
50. exterior emblems
51. windshield & backlite stainless trim
52. windshield wiper arms & blades
53. other exterior trim
54. taillights
55. mid body/rear lamp wiring harness
56. dome lamp wiring harness
57. shoulder harness clips (if applicable)
58. rear grip strips (Bbody)
59. headliner
60. roofrail c-channels
61. roofrail weatherstrips
62. windshield & backlite moulding clips
63. windshield & backlite
64. upper control arms on body
65. fuel hose clamped on body side fuel tubing
with keystone crimp clamp
66. install rear leaf springs front only
67. position rear end housing on springs
68. loosely fasten u-bolts
69. lift rear axle into position and install shackles
70. connect e-brake cables
71. connect brake line tubing & hose
72. DRIVETRAIN SUBASSEMBLE
a. K-member
b. engine
c. carb(s)
d. starter
e. alternator
f. fan & fan clutch
g. power steering pump (if applicable)
h. belts
i. motor mounts
j. trans & related hardware
k. lower control arms
l. strut rods
m. center link, idler arm, tie rods
n. steering box & pitman arm
o. fuel pump and tubing
p. fan blade
q. radiator hoses

73. drop body onto drivetrain subassembly
74. connect heater hoses
75. install trans crossmember
76. install driveshaft
77. connect shift linkages
78. install z-bar (if applicable)
79. connect clutch linkage (if applicable)
80. plug in electrical connections to engine
81. position fan shroud over fan blade
82. install radiator & connect hoses
83. connect trans cooler (if applicable)
84. bolt up fan shroud
85. install torsion bars
86. install exhaust system
87. install rear valance (if applicable)
88. set car on the ground
89. install & align door and quarter glass
90. install steering column
91. install carpeting
92. install seat belts
93. install quarter interior trim panels
94. install rear seat
95. install console (if applicable)
96. install front seat(s)
97. install trunk mat
98. install spare tire
99. install bumper jack


There are many different sequences of assembly possible.
Sometimes I’ll jump from one area to another depending on parts available or other road blocks.
There are cases where the wrong order will give you headaches though!

Rick Kreuziger
Resto Rick's Website

I Have Some Stuff to Unload

Ok I'm out in the shop tonight, busting down cores to pull apart to prep and shelve, besides busting my thumb with the 3# sledge...good thing it's a dead blow, I only hit myself one time that way  LOL

Anyway I have a LARGE box of used bulkhead connectors sitting there that I throw connectors into when I'm breaking down cores and I'm thinking it's about time to have an online "flea market" of sorts...need a used, but in GOOD condition bulkhead connector at a real deal???  Email me if you do:   kim@passion4mopars.com

This could be a great deal and maybe an extra for someone who swap meets alot??  I dunno, just thinking....

I'll let em go for $3 each plus the shipping, which is under a buck for continental U.S.  If you're a service member, I'll eat that postage, I owe it to ya!

Need a Crank Arm???

Chances are I have it already plated or it's in the bucket to prep for plating...there's several of those buckets around the shop...ok so I got a little behind on the prepping for plating end of things...but I'm getting there :-))

If you're not sure which crank arm Part Number you're looking for, let me know what you need and I can figure it out from make model, etc.

Kim    865-365-5833

kim@passion4mopars.com

Mopar Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram

Basics of Threaded Fasteners

Basics Of Threaded Fasteners

I can't give you a full lesson on Mechanics of Materials here; it is a little involved- 4 hrs per wk for a semester. I will give you a little info though.

If you can find an engineering textbook on Machine Design or Mechanics of Materials, read up on stress and strain. It is very simple and you do not need to be a calculus whiz to understand it; it is basic math only.

The basic material properties are given in lb/sq in for English (inch) fasteners. So, whether it's a 1/4 or 1/2 screw (bolt) it will have the same properties as long as it’s the same material. Don’t confuse properties with strength; the larger fastener will fail at higher loads because it is larger. It's the same as a 2x4 and 4x8 board cut from the same tree: same *properties*, different strengths.

If you have a half inch bolt, basically .5 diameter (but not .500", max diameter is actually slightly smaller), and want to know its strength, don't figure the "area" as Pi(.5*.5)/4; this is incorrect. You must use its smallest diameter- basically the diameter at the "root" of the thread. This smallest area is commonly called the "tensile stress area", or just the "stress area" and there are tables that list this area so you don't have to do the math- tables are in Machinery's Handbook and other "engineering" books, or do an online search for “fastener tensile stress area”. Fine thread bolts have a greater root diameter than coarse, so the stress area is greater and they are stronger than a coarse thread fastener if they are the same material and basic size.

Note that the stress area is not exactly the root diameter on a threaded fastener because threads are rolled and not cut on commercially produced fasteners. Because of the rolling method of manufacturing, the stress area is actually slightly larger than the root diameter; think of the material compression at the root diameter from the rolling process and that this would increase the strength over a cut thread where material was solely removed by cutting it away.

(~ means "approx" as I'm going to round to make it easier on me)

Sooo, a 1/2 UNC bolt has a stress area of ~.142 sq in, and a 1/2 UNF bolt has a stress area of ~.160 sq-in. Multiply the stress area by the Ultimate Tensile Strength and you will get the load, in lbs, when the bolt will fail. For UTS=120,000 lb/sq-in material, basic SAE grade 5, the 1/2 UNC will fail at 17040 lb, 1/2 UNF at 19200 lb. See how the units cancel out? Multiply strength in (lb/sq in) * (sq in) stress area and you are left with lb at failure. A decent *rule of thumb* (not exact!) is UNF is ~10% stronger than UNC for the same basic size and material. 1/4 UNF is almost 20% stronger than UNC, same material.

You can search the net for "tensile stress area table" and can do the math yourself.


Definitions:
Yield strength: the load in pounds (lb; technically lbf) to make it the item stretch 0.2% (not 2%). Take the load and divided by area of the item. Units are lb/sq in for english units. Note it is *usually* 0.2%; this is the most common value by far. So, assume 0.2% unless otherwise noted. This would be stretching a 1.000 lg item to 1.002.

If you load a bolt and stretch it, and plot stress (load/area, or lb/sq in) on the Y axis and strain (change in length/original length) on the X axis you will have a "stress strain curve" for the bolt. For a portion of the loading, the stress strain curve is linear; then at the end of the linear portion you will have the Sp, Proof Strength; then it will turn to a "curve" (not a line) and you will have the Sy, Yield Strength; and finally the Sut, or UTS, Ultimate Tensile Strength, where it fails (breaks).

please see this for a stress strain diag:
http://www.instron.com/apps/glossary/s.asp
Instron is a mfg of testers that can be used to load bolts, etc, and measure stress/strain

Tensile Strength is when it breaks; this is the UTS I mentioned.

Proof Strength is max load it can take without undergoing plastic deformation- aka, permanent stretching or a permanent change in length. This is usually ~.9 times the yield strength. Divide Proof Strength by Yield Strength and you should get about .9, but this does vary slightly.

If you are tightening a bolt, it will eventually stretch some value. This is the most accurate way of preloading a fastener. A torque wrench is a *highly approximate* method of preloading, but it's good enough for most applications. Basically all you are doing with a torque wrench is approximating the stretch of the bolt. If you have ever used ARP rod bolts you will see that they really want you to use the stretch method as it's the most accurate; there are too many variables with the torque wrench method. Type of plating on a fastener can produce a major difference in the torque applied vs. actual preload- zinc and cad are very different with cad having a much lower coefficient of friction. So, a cad plated fastener will stretch more than a zinc plated one when the same torque is applied to it. A few other common error introducing items are fastener cleanliness and lubrication. Since these variables can introduce errors of over 100% in torque applied versus preload, you can see the possible problems with relying on a torque wrench.

~60ksi, or 60,000 lb/in sq is the stress to properly preload a grade 5 bolt in a non-permanent connection- bolt may be reused. Permanent bolts- like in structural steel connections in buildings, are stressed (stretched) more.

To Be Reused: stress to .75 proof strength
Permanent: stress to .90 proof strength

Threaded Fasteners in Shear

There is a lot of incorrect information on fasteners “in shear” on internet mailing lists and message boards. I have seen in more than one location where people claim you should use a grade 5 bolt in a “shear” application instead of a grade 8 since the grade 5 is softer and will take more loading to fail in shear than the more “brittle” grade 8 bolt. First off, a little information on shear strength: shear strength is the strength (lb/sq in) when the element is loaded in shear will fail; shear being when the load is applied perpendicular to the axis. Shear strength is usually calculated as a percentage of the Ultimate Tensile Strength, about .5-.6X the UTS. So to debunk the myth of a grade 5 bolt failing at higher loading in shear than grade 8 is very simple: The higher UTS in the grade 8 bolt gives a higher shear strength than the grade 5 bolt- end of story. So, a grade 8 bolt is stronger in both tension and in shear than a grade 5 bolt; remember that one. Also, grade 8 bolts are harder than grade 5 by definition, but this greater hardness does not make them shatter like glass when loaded in “shear” as some people seem to think.

Notice that I have written “shear”, in quotations, many times. Why? Because bolts will never actually be in shear in a properly designed, properly preloaded (torqued) assembly. Why? Well, if you insert the bolts, finger tighten the nuts, then load the junction in shear then the bolts will be in shear; however, this is ignoring a major part of a bolted joint: clamping force that is exerted when a fastener is preloaded. When a fastener is tightened it exerts a clamping force on the items that it connects. This clamping force is surprisingly high; please check out a fastener torque and preload chart:

http://www.smithfast.com/specs.htm

That is a great chart to print out and put on your garage wall.

So, if you have a two elements connected by four grade 8 ½-20 fasteners that are properly preloaded, each fastener will exert over 14,000 lb of clamping force; for four (4) fasteners, that is 56,000 lb total clamping! Think of it as having a large flat horizontal plate and sitting another flat plate on top of it that weighs 56,000 lb and then trying to slide that top plate on the bottom plate. So, in order to actually shear load the 4 fasteners mentioned you will have to first overcome the 56,000 lb clamping force. Only once the 56,000 lb clamping is overcome will the fasteners be actually loaded in shear. Going back to the horizontal plates, reasonably assuming dry steel on dry steel, with a coefficient of friction of 0.5, you will have to apply a force of F=uN; F=0.5*56,000=28,000 lb of force to move the top plate on the bottom plate. The same force would be required to shear load the four ½-20 bolts that have been properly preloaded.

(F= force; u= coefficient of friction; N= weight)

Bolt Or Screw Loosening And The “Split” Lockwasher.

Most people believe that vibration causes a bolt or nut to loosen, however the most common reason, which has been verified through extensive testing, is that the nut or screw moves “sideways” relative to the fastened joint. The sideways motion (force) is then applied to the threads and the bolt or nut will unthread itself if the sideways force is greater than the friction force between the screw/bolt or nut and the element that is fastened. There are several reasons the bolt/screw or nut moves sideways: bending in the fastened joint which applies force that can loosen the element, thermal expansion, and shifting of the joint surfaces. If a clamped joint relaxes over time then the fastener will no longer be properly preloaded which can cause the fastener to loosen.

If you are a fan of the split lockwasher, think of the some most important bolts in an engine: connecting rod bolts, main bearing cap bolts and flywheel bolts, none of which use a split lockwasher (none that I’ve seen). The fact that these bolts/screws don’t use a split lockwasher should tell you that it is not a necessary item. So then why are they still used? Good question, but read below, taken from www.boltscience.com.
“Work completed during the 1960's in Germany indicated that transversely applied alternating forces generate the most severe conditions for self loosening. The result of these studies led to the design of a testing machine which allowed quantitative information to be obtained on the locking performance of self locking fasteners. Such machines, often called Junkers machines in the literature - after it's inventor, have been used over the last twenty years by the major automotive and aerospace manufacturers to assess the performance of proprietary self locking fasteners. As a result, a rationalisation of the variety of locking devices used by such major companies has occurred. For example, conventional spring lock washers are no longer specified, because it has been shown that they actually aid self loosening rather than prevent it.” (1)
There are, however, many worthwhile locking devices available, the main three types being:
Free Spinning: Serrated flange nut or a serrated washer head screw
Friction Locking: Plastic insert locknuts, flexloc nuts, interference thread lock nuts...
Chemical Locking: Loctite, etc.

“In general terms, the key to preventing self loosening of fasteners is to ensure that:
1. There is sufficient clamp force present on the joint interface to prevent relative motion between the bolt head or nut and the joint.
2. The joint is designed to allow for the effects of embedding and stress relaxation.
3. Proven thread locking devices are specified. Specifically, thread locking compounds - such as "Loctite", flanged fasteners such as "Whizlok" or torque prevailing fasteners such as "Nyloc". In general, loose washers, of the plain or spring variety, are not generally advisable.” (2)
above are the *basics* of fasteners. Of course, there is more to it than that, entire books, but that will get you started.
Sources:
Mechanical Engineering Design, 5th edition, by Shigley and Mischke
(1) (2) www.boltscience.com

Thanks to Resto Rick (Restorations by Rick Kreuziger) for the great info!

Chrysler Registers Cuda Name Plate

Chrysler Registers Cuda Name Plate

Check Out Bob Harvey's Cuda and CONGRATS!

Bob Harvey has become a very close friend to me....we spend literally hours on the phone intermittently and laugh til we cry.  Started out as a business deal, ended up with me meeting a great person and gaining a GOOD friend.

Bob's Cuda has made the cover AND two inside pages of the 2011 YearOne catalog and I'm proud as hell of him.  CONGRATS Bobby, you've done a great job on that car and making the cover was well deserved!  (Oh and glad I could have a tiny little part of that with the wiper motor LOL)